Dubai & Abu Dhabi: Party in the Persian Gulf
Never been to the Middle East? The UAE is the perfect place to dip a perfectly pedicured toe into the desert and sample the magic of the Arabian Peninsula. I tagged along on my husband’s business trip to Dubai, and then we extended a few days to explore Abu Dhabi—because if you’re flying that far, you might as well do it properly.
When To Go and How To Get There
November through March is peak season for good reason. Think blue skies and blissful 68–86°F weather: ideal for desert safaris, souk strolling, and rooftop everything. From June to September, however, temperatures regularly soar past 104°F. Translation: the air feels like it’s blasting from a hair dryer set to “punishment.” Unless extreme heat is your love language, skip summer in the UAE. We visited in mid-October and found it to be the sweet spot—warm, sunny, and far more forgiving.
Polished Passport friends, this is your moment to fly Emirates: modern planes, gourmet meals, luxe leather headrests, and an in-flight entertainment system boasting over 6,500 channels (you could land fluent in Korean dramas!) The flight attendants? Lovely.
Here’s the truth, though: unless you’re flying first class—behind floor-to-ceiling suite doors with access to a shower spa—it can feel suspiciously like any other long-haul. My husband flew business class a couple of days ahead of me and I followed in economy. By landing, my two seatmates and I had exchanged life stories, our lamb biryani, and what I assume were binding friendship vows. I’m fairly certain I’m attending their wedding in Mumbai this fall. The seats are that tight.
Still, I’d do it again in a heartbeat. Because when you wake up, you’re in the Middle East—and what a fascinating place it is.
Where to Stay in Dubai
Dubai will spoil you for choice in accommodations—but bring a thick wallet and choose wisely. Stay too far from downtown and the traffic will have you more agitated than a rutting camel at rush hour.
We split our stay between downtown at the Ritz-Carlton DIFC and on the golden sands of The Palm at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray.
Ritz-Carlton Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC)
Because of my husband’s meetings, we began at this polished five-star property in the heart of downtown, just minutes from the Museum of the Future, Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa, and the World Trade Centre.
The property is sleek and contemporary with towering palms and a dramatic 10-story waterfall cascading down the façade. We spent an evening in the Sunken Garden shisha lounge, sipping cocktails in the warm night air beneath the stars—it felt deliciously indulgent. And the spa’s Golden Arabian Nights Ritual? Exactly the sort of “wellness appointment” one should confidently schedule while claiming to be very busy on an international work trip. (Below are a few pics I stole from their website because it is a freakishly hard hotel to photograph well!)
Is it worth the splurge? For business, absolutely—central location, impeccable staff, seamless everything. But for pure pleasure? I’ll take the Palm views and suffer the traffic with a smile.
Jumeirah Zabeel Saray
Located on Palm Jumeirah, a man-made palm-shaped archipelago constructed with over 100 million cubic meters of sand and 7 million tons of rock, this hotel feels like an Ottoman fantasy come to life. Frankly, it makes the Ritz feel boring.
The grand entrance alone is a moment. Inside the hotel, you’ll be treated to hand-painted walls, Turkish artwork, gilded columns, and ornate latticework, creating a lavish backdrop. Did I mention there are ten restaurants to explore? Portraits of UAE leaders reinforce the sense of place, a reminder that this is distinctly Emirati grandeur.
And then there’s the two-story Talise Ottoman Spa. They have a snow room. Yes, actual snow. And if you’ve never experienced a traditional Turkish hammam, this is your cue. The ritual involves time in a steam room, a vigorous exfoliation with a kese mitt (humbling but transformative), an extravagant soap-bubble massage, and then a cool-down that leaves you reborn and slightly dazzled. In a word? You won’t want to leave.
Now let’s talk about the view from this six-floor private beach resort. At your feet: the brilliant blue Arabian Gulf. But thanks to its perch on the west crescent of the Palm, you also get front-row seats to Billionaire’s Island, the wild, Tetris-inspired architecture of Atlantis The Royal, and the opulent, palace-like grandeur of Atlantis The Palm.
It’s an absolute stunner.
The Verdict: Is the Jumeirah Zabeel Saray gorgeous and opulant? Absolutely. The only drawback is geography. Perched at the far end of the Palm’s West Crescent, Jumeirah Zabeel Saray feels wonderfully secluded—but that serenity comes with a trade-off. Reaching downtown sights can take 20–40 minutes, depending on traffic, and taxi fares typically cost 75–120 AED each way ($20–$33 USD).
Next time, we’d likely book closer to the trunk of Palm Jumeirah for quicker access to downtown Dubai and the Marina or try one of these beauties between the Palm and downtown. Alternatively, we could sell our firstborn and check into Burj Al Arab Jumeirah—the sail-shaped icon on its own private island, famed for its “seven-star” swagger and unapologetically over-the-top suites. Very tempting…
A Few Notes on the UAE
Safety
I explored Dubai solo most days while my husband was in meetings. Violent crime is extremely low, and overall, it feels very safe for women. That said, the male gaze is real. Additionally, one vendor actually took my arm and half-dragged me into his store to admire his fabric (something he would not have attempted if I had been accompanied by a man). If you’re traveling alone, consider pairing up with another solo female traveler when wandering the markets.
Transportation
If you’re not renting a car, download both Uber and Careem. Traffic near downtown can be intense at rush hour—especially during major events (like private jet conferences)—and when Uber surge pricing spikes or drivers cancel, Careem can be a lifesaver. Careem (owned by Uber) often offers more affordable short rides, while Uber tends to have slightly higher-end vehicles and works well for longer distances. Having both apps makes getting around far less stressful.
Also, carry a backup phone battery—you’ll take more photos than you expect, and no one wants to book a rideshare at 5:30 p.m. with 5% battery.
Dress
Dubai is cosmopolitan and welcoming, but modesty goes a long way. It’s hot, so pack lightweight fabrics (linen pants will treat you far better than denim). Skip short skirts and plunging necklines in malls and markets unless you’re aiming for “confused theme park tourist.”
Evenings skew polished, so bring smart outfits for restaurants and clubs. Western styles are perfectly fine—just keep a pashmina or shawl handy for moving between venues. Swimwear is great at pools and beaches, but dress codes do apply elsewhere, like at clubs and restaurants, so check before you sashay in.
What to Do in Dubai
Learn About Life in the UAE from an Emirati
I loved the 90-minute Heritage Tour I booked with the Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum Centre for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU) in Old Dubai. We began over Arabic coffee and dates at the Centre, where my Emirati guide invited us to ask anything we wanted to know about local culture, traditions, religion, and daily life in Dubai. Truly, nothing was off-limits—which made the experience feel refreshingly candid, intimate, and deeply insightful.
From there, we wandered the narrow sikkas (alleyways) of the Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood—enjoying the modern street art along the way—before visiting the Diwan Mosque. Prior to entering, our Emirati guide showed us how to wear a lightweight scarf called a shayla. I left with a far deeper understanding of Emirati culture, and even met a fellow solo female traveler to grab lunch with afterward.
Beyond the Heritage Tour, SMCCU also offers cultural dinners, desert animal programs, trolley and abra rides through Al Fahidi, and museum visits—all led by Emirati guides who share firsthand insight into life in the UAE. It was one of the most meaningful experiences of my trip. Prices vary by program; in 2022, I paid AED 120 (about $32 USD) for the Heritage Tour.
When your tour wraps up, take a two-minute stroll to the Arabian Teahouse Café for lunch. Once the home of a pearl merchant, it now serves traditional Emirati specialties in a charming, leafy courtyard filled with wicker chairs, turquoise benches, and black-and-white photos of old Dubai.
Order the Emirati breakfast—scrambled eggs, marinated eggplant, black olives, feta, and labneh—beautifully arranged on a giant silver platter. It’s colorful, generous, and exactly the kind of leisurely meal Old Dubai deserves.
Take Tea Atop the Burj Khalifa
We booked a Viator “Skip the Line” experience to visit this iconic skyscraper—and it was worth every single dirham. For $48 USD per person, we breezed past long security and elevator lines to a private lounge, where we waited until it was our turn to board the shockingly fast elevator to the top. Blink, and you’re there.
We explored Levels 124, 125, and 148—the latter home to the world’s highest observatory—because if you’re going to go up, you might as well really go up. The views were absolutely jaw-dropping: desert, sea, skyline, all laid out like a glossy architectural model. Our stop at the SKY Lounge for Arabic coffee and dates made the whole thing feel appropriately elevated (pardon the pun).
Once you finish your trip to the top, carve out an hour or two to wander around the Dubai Mall, which is where the Burj is located. Besides shopping, you can visit the Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo, the Arte Museum Dubai, and the Dubai Fountain, which puts on the world’s largest choreographed fountain show on the Burj Lake beside the Mall.
Verdict: 100% worth it. Just check the forecast and choose a clear day—nothing dampens a sky-high moment quite like paying for panoramic views and getting a cloud.
Take a Desert Safari
Without a doubt, this was my favorite experience in Dubai.
After falling down a rabbit hole of desert tour options, I quickly concluded that 4×4 dune bashing, quad biking, and dune buggying sounded less like “adventure” and more like “chiropractor follow-up appointment.” And while sandboarding feels very James Bond, I hadn’t exactly trained for that level of cinematic athleticism. So I chose something far more our speed: a refined, heritage-focused desert safari.
We booked the 7-hour Heritage Desert Safari with Platinum Heritage, and it was flawless from start to finish. The afternoon began with a hotel pickup and transfer to the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve. Once there, we learned how to tie traditional headscarves (critical for both elegance and sand containment), snapped our golden-hour photos, and climbed into a beautifully restored vintage Land Rover that made us feel like we were starring in Out of Africa: Desert Edition.
Our driver took us on a one-hour nature safari through the reserve, which culminated in a breathtaking sunset falcon show. We then arrived at a Bedouin-style camp where we rode camels (slowly—this was not the Kentucky Derby), sat for henna art, watched traditional bread being made, and politely declined the hookah.
Dinner was a four-course feast served in a traditional majlis under the stars—equal parts serene and cinematic. The evening closed with cultural performances, including a yola dance (men spinning and tossing rifles with unnerving precision) and rhythmic drumming that echoed across the desert night. Cost: AED 695 (about $189 USD) per adult. Verdict: 100% worth it—and zero chiropractic bills afterward.
One more thing: the entire evening is captured on film and by drone. You can head home with beautiful memories… or actual footage of your desert-under-the-stars main-character moment.
Ride an Abra to the Spice & Gold Souks
No first visit to Dubai is complete without a little Old Dubai magic. To get there, hop on an abra—a traditional wooden boat—and glide across Dubai Creek from Bur Dubai to Deira. You can grab a public abra for pocket change, but if you’re feeling posh, hire a private one through your concierge for a leisurely hour on the water.
Once in Deira, make a beeline for the Gold Souk. Wander the narrow alleyways lined with more than 100 shops glittering with necklaces, rings, bracelets, and earrings in every imaginable style from Italy to Indian. Prices are competitive—but bargaining is part of the sport, so channel your inner negotiator.
Then follow your nose to the Spice Souk, where sacks of saffron, cardamom, incense, dried roses, and mysterious potions spill color into the lanes. It’s fragrant, chaotic, and a full sensory reminder that long before skyscrapers, Dubai was a trading powerhouse.
What Else? (Because You’re Not Flying 8,000 Miles for One Activity)
On Fridays We Brunch
In Dubai, brunch is not a meal. It’s a competitive sport. Go big at Jumeirah Al Qasr for an over-the-top international spread, embrace the champagne-fueled chaos at Saffron, lean into pool-party glamour at Nikki Beach (only Saturdays), or keep it chic with sushi and robata at Zuma. Pace yourself. Hydrate. Respect the brunch.
Sail Around Palm Jumeirah
The iconic Palm Jumeirah adds 320 miles to Dubai’s shoreline (because subtlety is not the brand). Charter a speedboat, yacht, or catamaran with Blue Safari Water Sports, and cruise past skyline views that look suspiciously Photoshopped.
Art Walk in Al Quoz
For a culture fix, head to Alserkal Avenue, a warehouse-turned-art-hub packed with galleries and cafés. If you’re short on time, pop into Carbon 12. Industrial on the outside, very cool on the inside—much like half of Dubai.
Still on my Dubai hit list: the architectural fever dream that is the Museum of the Future, high-octane thrills at Dubai Autodrome (because apparently I now follow Formula One), a bravery test at Skydive Dubai, sunrise floats with Balloon Adventures Dubai, and what I’m most excited about: camel racing with robot jockeys, because of course that’s a thing here.
Eating out in Dubai
Dubai does not mess around when it comes to dining. One minute you’re eating shawarma for a few dirhams, the next you’re contemplating a seven-course tasting menu in the sky. Rooftops, hidden alleys, global flavors—it’s all here, and it’s extra in the best way.
That said, this isn’t a “set it and forget it” food scene. Like Vegas or L.A., what’s hot changes fast. Do a little homework about six weeks before you go (check out Time Out Dubai, the Michelin Guide, etc.) so you’re booking what’s buzzy.
Abu Dhabi Day Trip
If you do nothing else in the Emirates, dedicate a full day—preferably more—to Abu Dhabi, just 90 minutes south of Dubai. It’s worth it.
Dubai and Abu Dhabi are two of the seven emirates that formed the UAE in 1971. Abu Dhabi is the capital—polished and powerful—while Dubai is the flashier business hub. Both shine, just differently.
We had our concierge arrange a car and driver for the day—seamless and stress-free. The route is easy, with long stretches of desert and minimal traffic outside rush hour. (On the E11, each lane has its own speed range. Yes, really. Stray outside it and you’ll collect a fine.)
Timing matters: rush hour runs 7–9 a.m., so we scheduled pickup for 8:30 a.m. from our hotel on The Palm. We arrived at the Louvre Abu Dhabi right at its 10:00 a.m. opening, had lunch at 12:30 p.m. at Emirates Palace, and closed the day at the breathtaking Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. We were back in Dubai by 4:30/5:00 p.m. for a swim and dinner. Efficient, elegant, and perfectly paced. Buy tickets online ahead of time.
Louvre Abu Dhabi
Opened in 2017, the Louvre Abu Dhabi is the result of a landmark partnership between France and the UAE—and France’s largest cultural project abroad.
Architecturally, it’s stunning: the structure appears to float on the surrounding water. Designed by Jean Nouvel, the vast dome filters sunlight into a soft “rain of light,” casting shifting patterns across the galleries.
Inside, the permanent collection—enhanced by loans from the Louvre Museum and other French institutions—pairs masters like Leonardo da Vinci, Monet, and Van Gogh with ancient artifacts from across civilizations. We ended our visit with coffee at the museum café overlooking the Arabian Gulf, because contemplating art is thirsty work.
Lunch at Vendome Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental
There are no shortage of lunch spots in Abu Dhabi, but I wanted an excuse to step inside the legendary Emirates Palace. With a reported $3 billion price tag, gold-accented interiors, a private marina and beach, 114 domes, 1,002 chandeliers, and even a Michelin-starred restaurant, subtle it is not.
Anchoring the western end of the Corniche in Abu Dhabi—and larger than Buckingham Palace—this eight-story hotel makes quite an entrance. Upon arrival, my car door was opened by a nearly 7-foot-6 doorman who has worked at the hotel since 1994 and looks like he moonlights as a Game of Thrones extra.
Inside, gold gleams from nearly every surface, and we passed beneath one of the largest domes in the world. I booked Vendôme for lunch; the buffet was lovely, but not life-changing. I might suggest trying one of the outdoor restaurants. Afterward, we strolled the private beach and admired neighboring Qasr Al Watan, the striking presidential palace next door.
Verdict: Worth a visit? Absolutely. Go for the spectacle.
Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
Our final stop was the breathtaking Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, one of the largest mosques in the world—and a true architectural masterpiece. Blending traditional Islamic design with grand scale, it can accommodate up to 40,000 worshipers.
But before we set foot on that gleaming marble courtyard, our driver gently informed me that my “modest” outfit was… aspirational. A quick shopping stop was in order.
The dress code at the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is strict and respectfully enforced. Women must wear loose, ankle-length, wrist-length garments and a headscarf; men need to cover shoulders and knees.
Thankfully, there’s an underground visitor center before security where you can purchase abayas and scarves, typically priced between 35 and 50+ AED ($10–15 USD). Important note: there are no complimentary rentals—so budget accordingly and consider it a stylish souvenir with a story.
We layered our new pieces over our existing outfits, which made for a slightly bulky (but fully compliant) ensemble.
The details are staggering: 1,096 columns inlaid with amethyst and jasper, 82 white marble domes, serene reflective pools, gold-plated Swarovski chandeliers, and a vast courtyard showcasing one of the largest marble mosaic artworks on earth. It was absolutely unforgettable.
Until next time, UAE…
As we cruised back to Dubai, stealing one last look at Abu Dhabi’s gleaming skyline, white-sand beaches, and those unreal turquoise waters, we started plotting our return.
Next time, we plan to ride the world’s fastest rollercoaster at Ferrari World Abu Dhabi, tour the presidential palace at Qasr Al Watan, unwind at a private club on Saadiyat Beach, and head back into the desert for another safari under the stars.
