From Split to Dubrovnik: 7 Days of Croatian Magic

Dreaming of the ultimate week in Croatia? Whether it’s your first trip or you’re hunting for fresh inspiration, this guide has everything you need to make the most of this breathtaking slice of the Balkans.

When To Go and How To Get There

May and September are Croatia’s sweet spots—warm seas, fewer crowds, and room to breathe. June through August? Gorgeous but packed. We went in August 2025, when all of Europe (and half of America) seemed to have the same idea. My first European August—a little crowded, but worth it. With two college kids, you take the week they’re free and call it destiny.

We’re based in Dallas, and while there are direct flights to Croatia, fourteen and a half hours in the air felt… excessive. So I booked the scenic route: a nine-hour flight to Madrid, where we spent 36 hours soaking up the Spanish capital, shaking off the jet lag, and indulging in tapas. From there, it was an easy 2-hour, 40-minute hop to Split—refreshed, adjusted, and ready for the Adriatic.

Start in Split

In Split, a budget-friendly coastal gem where ancient history meets modern life, Diocletian’s Palace anchors the city and locals spill into sunlit cafés. The crowd is a mix of beach lovers, history buffs, and culture seekers—from young Europeans chasing the nightlife to families and seasoned travelers drawn to its charm. Expect fresh seafood, crisp wine, and centuries of history at every turn.

Where To Stay in Split

After sifting through what felt like every hotel in Split, I finally landed on Judita Palace—and here’s why it took the crown:

🏰 Unbeatable location: Right in the heart of the Old Town, with Diocletian’s Palace basically waving from next door. We’re talking a one-minute stroll—yes, I timed it.

✨ Heritage charm: Set in a 16th-century palace dripping with character—think stone walls, archways, and that cozy “I’m sleeping inside history” feeling. The only thing not old? The soundproof windows. (Bless them.)

🤣 Staff with stand-up energy: The team could double as a concierge-slash-comedy troupe—attentive, hilarious, and somehow always one step ahead. I asked for a last-minute blowout, and hours later, voilà—mission accomplished.

Now, let’s be real: it’s not dripping in modern glam, and the interiors lean a little… vintage (in the “not quite updated yet” sense). But there’s a cozy courtyard bar perfect for unwinding, and the personality—both the building and the people—more than made up for the lack of swank. We paid €925 per night for the family duplex room—the only one in the hotel—which was spread across two floors. There was a king bed on the bottom floor and twins on the top floor.

I also came very close to booking the Marriott property Le Méridien Lav, which leans full-on five-star resort luxe. Think: a prime waterfront setting with its own private beach, multiple pools and tennis courts, sleek modern design, several on-site restaurants, a full spa, a kids’ club, and rooms that open to dreamy sea views. It’s the kind of place where you can float between cocktails, cabanas, and massages without ever leaving the property.

The trade-off? It’s about a 15-minute drive from Split’s Old Town. So while Judita Palace drops you straight into the historic heartbeat of the city, Le Méridien Lav offers more of a resort bubble experience—glamorous and relaxing, but more expensive and removed from the everyday pulse of Split. Below are pics of the Judita Palace courtyard.

What To Do in Split

When you land in Split, just start wandering. But heads-up: the Old Town is a beautiful labyrinth, thanks to Diocletian’s 4th-century palace at its core (UNESCO status and major “wait, have I been here already?” energy). You will get lost—embrace it.

Pro tip: book a morning tour of the Palace and Old Town. Use the Old City Clock as your North Star, and soon you’ll be strutting through the narrow streets with confidence (and ideally, gelato). We booked a 90-minute, €120 tour for four with Maja Benzon (maja.benzon@gmail.com) and loved her efficient, low-key style—no fluff, just fascinating insights and a steady pace.

She led us through Split’s greatest hits: Peristyle Square, the Temple of Jupiter, and the Cathedral of St. Duje, while also slipping in fun extras like Game of Thrones filming spots (yes, we stood in the underground cellars where Daenerys kept her dragons in Meereen). We ended along the Riva promenade, lined with palm trees and café terraces that practically demand a coffee break.

I used to think history was just a bunch of dusty dates and dead guys (honestly, that lasted well into my 30s). But now? I’m obsessed. And Split is basically a living, breathing history book — minus the homework. The city walls tell a story—look closely and you’ll spot the architectural timeline: 4th-century Roman foundations overlaid with medieval, Venetian, and Baroque touches. The original palace layout became the framework for a growing city that morphed into a hub of commerce, defense, and everyday life.

Once your tour wraps, head straight to Bokeria Kitchen & Wine—just a few steps from the Old City Clock and ideal for a leisurely lunch. The Mediterranean menu blends European and Croatian flavors beautifully, with plenty of options for vegetarians, vegans, and the gluten-free crowd. Think modern, buzzy, and deliciously convenient.

For the afternoon, reward yourself with some sun-soaked luxury at Mistral Beach Club. Hot tip: book your daybeds early (€100 for two) and beg for a spot far from the DJ booth. We splurged on a cabana so the four of us could stretch out like lazy lizards, snack like we hadn’t seen food in days, swim, and play cards in blissful peace. It was pure, sunscreen-scented nirvana.

Dinner is where Split really shows off—book a table at Zoi. Perched along the southern wall of Diocletian’s Palace, it has a panoramic terrace that looks out over the palm-lined port (sunset here isn’t just pretty—it’s cinematic). Choose between two tasting menus: Zoi Echo, a seafood love letter, or Zoi Terra, a vegetarian fever dream. Grab a top-floor table to soak in the view, and you’ll instantly understand why the Michelin Guide couldn’t resist. And yes, those colorful dollops in the photo below? Butter. Fancy, fabulous butter.

Can’t get into Zoi? Try Kadena. Also featured in the Michelin Guide, it’s an elegant alternative perched above the Zenta Marina and beach—just a quick taxi ride from Split’s Old Town. Book a table on the terrace for sweeping sea views, and settle in for a memorable meal that fuses traditional Mediterranean flavors with modern flair. The service is warm and genuine, making it one of those evenings that lingers in the best way.

Split Hot Take: Who Will Love It?

Before you hop a boat for Hvar, here’s my honest take: Split isn’t for everyone—but if you fall into one of two camps, you’ll absolutely love it.

  1. Backpackers. This place hums with youthful, beachy energy. By evening, it’s wall-to-wall twenty-somethings drinking and swapping travel stories. My 21-year-old son summed it up: “I’d come back here with my girlfriend.” It’s lively, affordable, safe, and ridiculously easy to reach, with cheap flights from the UK, Amsterdam, Munich, etc., so you’ll mix with a lively European crowd.
  2. History buffs. If ancient architecture makes your heart beat faster, Diocletian’s Palace will do the trick. The layers of history—Roman, medieval, Venetian, Baroque—are wild. As for the daily “appearance” by Emperor Diocletian and his silent wife in Peristyle Square? Cheesy. Touristy. Impossible not to photograph anyway.

Split might not have Dubrovnik’s polish, but that’s exactly its charm—it’s a little rough around the edges, full of life, and totally its own thing.

48 Hours in Hvar

Now, let’s keep moving! We gave Split a full day and two nights. It’s time to check out Hvar, a Croatian island in the southern Adriatic Sea, buzzing with beach days and nightlife that channels the vibe of Ibiza or Mykonos—just on a more intimate scale.

Getting To Hvar

I spent a lot of time figuring out the nicest, least expensive, and most hassle-free way to get from Split to Hvar. After checking with both my Split and Hvar hotels (and falling down a few internet rabbit holes), I ultimately had Palace Elisabeth in Hvar book our tickets on a Krilo catamaran. They knew exactly which route, time, and company to choose—so much easier than guessing myself. Tickets were €35 one way per person (service fee included), and the ride took about 1 hour and 20 minutes—smooth, scenic, and stress-free. The hotel staff met us right at the dock, drove us to Hvar Town’s main square, and whisked our bags away in the tiniest little van you’ve ever seen—while we strolled three leisurely minutes to the hotel.

Where To Stay in Hvar

Let’s get this out of the way: if you’re trying to save money, don’t stay overnight in Hvar. Sure, there are budget options—but let’s talk about two hotels that are actually worth your time (and your splurge).

We chose the Palace Elisabeth Hvar Hotel and it was pure magic. The moment you arrive in Hvar’s main square along the waterfront, your eyes go straight to this elegant landmark—centuries of history wrapped in creamy stone and old-world glamour. Originally a 13th-century palace, it was reimagined in 1899 with the support of Empress Elisabeth of Austria, whose name it proudly bears today.

The service is impeccable—warm, genuine, and quietly luxurious. The front desk attendant, beaming with pride, mentioned that the lavender sachet in our welcome gift came from her family’s own farm. It’s those thoughtful, personal touches that define the experience here.

And breakfast? Unreal. Served à la carte beneath a billowing tent on the rooftop terrace overlooking the square and marina, it’s pure European daydream—pastries, smoothies, oysters, caviar, and champagne, all to the sound of a live piano drifting through the morning air. Let’s just say: “yum” doesn’t even begin to cover it.

Did we pay for it? Uh, yeah. At €940 per room per night, this was our big splurge—the kind of stay you remember long after you’ve checked out. But if that price tag makes you wince, have breakfast at the hotel’s San Marco restaurant instead (just ask at the front desk about availability). You’ll still get a taste of the magic—no overnight stay required.

Prefer privacy and sea views to the Old Town buzz? Maslina Resort is your serene alternative to Palace Elisabeth. Set on tranquil Maslinica Bay near the UNESCO-listed town of Stari Grad, this design-forward retreat embodies Mindful Luxury—wellness, sustainability, and quiet sophistication. Fancy spa? Check. Adriatic views? Check. And your experience manager can arrange everything from farm visits to secret-tavern dinners. It’s a big splurge, yes—but pure island perfection.

Day One: Hvar Town & Hvar Beach Club

We arrived in Hvar Town mid-morning, checked in, and wandered straight into the island’s sunlit rhythm. The shopping scene is small but refined—a curated mix of linen boutiques, lavender shops, and local artisans, far more polished than Split’s souvenir stalls. For a sweet pause, stop at Nonica, a charming patisserie tucked inside a 15th-century Gothic gem beside a tiny chapel.

We had lunch at Restaurant Park on the Skaline od Gojave staircase (Black Pepper’s another great pick). Bougainvillea spilled over the walls, tables perched right on the steps, and the whole place oozed Mediterranean charm. Not on the waterfront, but it felt like a hidden little escape—sunny, secret, and just the right kind of lazy.

Then came the climb to the Spanish Fortress—a steep, fig-scented walk that left us pleasantly flushed but rewarded with sweeping views of Hvar’s terracotta rooftops and the Pakleni Islands shimmering beyond.

After a morning of sightseeing, shopping, and hiking up to the Fortress, my crew was ready for something slower—and preferably horizontal. Enter the Hvar Beach Club, just a ten-minute stroll along the waterfront from Palace Elisabeth. It was blissfully uncrowded, with crisp service right to our loungers, sparkling views, and a calm, sun-soaked energy. Our cabana jutted into the sea, so we could dive straight into the water between sips of something pretty and cold or take a short stroll to the beach. The cushions were soft, the service seamless, and the vibe pure Adriatic chic. Cost? €495 for full day use of an over water private deck with a baldachin day bed and two sun beds (perfect for four!), a bottle of champagne, a fruit platter, bottles of water, Ischia facial water mist and free wifi.

One note: as in much of Croatia (and Italy), beaches here are pebbled—so grace may briefly give way to practicality as you wade in. Consider it part of the charm.

For a serene finale to our sun-soaked day, we booked dinner at Maslina Resort’s Terra (mentioned above as an alternative place to stay overnight) on the island’s north side. We took an Uber from Hvar Town and scored a poolside table surrounded by soft light and salt air. The staff struck that effortless balance of charm and ease, and every plate was a quiet masterpiece. With its minimalist design and garden-to-table philosophy, Terra blends French finesse with Mediterranean soul—fresh herbs, local olive oil, and produce from its own garden. We loved it!

Day Two: The Blue & Green Caves

Day two was all about the Blue and Green Caves. I’d eyed the private charters, but at €3,000–€4,000 a day, that felt a little too Real Housewives of Dubrovnik. So I booked a shared excursion (Google this and find a million options) for €100 a person—a decision I regretted before we even left the dock. As it turns out, you do get what you pay for. A half-day private boat (€1,000–€2,000) would’ve been worth every euro for the peace, the playlist, and a bottle of rosé. There wasn’t even water on the excursion we boarded for the day!

Our first stop was the Green Cave on Ravnik, where sunlight streams through the ceiling and turns the water an Instagram filter come to life. My husband and kids dove in immediately; I chose the far safer role of deck photographer. The captain assured me that “even a grandma could swim it,” which was comforting right up until I realized… I was apparently the grandma.

Next came Stiniva Cove on Vis, a narrow inlet flanked by towering cliffs that open into a turquoise pebble beach—it was my favorite stop. The water was crystal clear AND we had time to linger.

By contrast, the Blue Cave on Biševo was stunning but crowded. We waited nearly an hour for our turn, and the tour inside was quick—no swimming allowed. Lunch at Nokos Beach House on Hvar was pleasant but forgettable, redeemed by a final stop at the Pakleni Islands, where we ended the day with a drink and a swim in Palmižana Bay.

Insider Take: Skip the all-day group tour—unless your idea of paradise is eight hours of someone’s cousin blasting Pitbull on a Bluetooth speaker while you wait for Kylie and Chad to locate their missing flip-flops. Splurge for a half-day private cruise instead—swing by the Green Cave, Vis, and the Pakleni Islands, then spend the afternoon frolicking through a lavender farm or sipping wine like you own the vineyard. Hvar is far too fabulous to spend trapped on a floating group chat. Less time, better tan, happier you.

I’d been looking forward to dinner all day, and Gariful—poised at the far end of Hvar Town’s waterfront—was worth the anticipation (and the outfit change). The stroll there was pure Mediterranean theatre: St. Stephen’s Square alive with the evening crowd, yachts shimmering under the fading light, and the sunset showing off in every reflection. Hvar Town doesn’t just have a buzz—it glows.

“Gariful,” meaning carnation in the Dalmatian dialect, symbolizes admiration and respect—a fitting name for this family-owned restaurant that began as a flower business. The family now operates seven fishing boats that sail at dawn to supply the kitchen’s daily catch, ensuring that every dish arrives impossibly fresh from sea to plate. It’s refined yet unpretentious, and the kind of dinner that lingers long after the last sip of wine.

Hvar Hot Take: Who Will Love It?

Hvar has a reputation as Croatia’s party island—but that’s only half the story. Yes, the nightlife hums, but by day it’s a stunning blend of sophistication and serenity, perfect for couples, adults, and families with older teens or young adults who appreciate both energy and elegance.

Day-trippers will love the ease—an effortless ferry from Split, a yacht-lined waterfront, boutique shopping, and cafés for every budget. But stay a few days, and Hvar really shows off. With time, those who can afford to overnight can sink into its slower rhythm: lingering waterfront dinners, evening gelato strolls, and lazy outings to lavender fields and vineyards. Don’t miss the charming town of Stari Grad, home to a UNESCO World Heritage site—and yes, even a donkey farm, because apparently everyone here is living the good life.

Hvar is for travelers who like their adventure with a side of luxury—and who know the best memories happen after the day-trippers sail home.

Three Days in Dazzling Dubrovnik

Now it’s time to head to Dubrovnik, the dramatic, stone-walled medieval city that feels straight out of a fantasy epic (yes, Game of Thrones fans, this one’s for you). The so-called Pearl of the Adriatic doesn’t just live up to the hype—it struts past it in full armor. I’m already plotting my return because honestly? It’s that good, that charming, that one-of-a-kind.

Getting to Dubrovnik

Our journey from Hvar to Dubrovnik was effortless. Palace Elisabeth arranged our TP Line catamaran tickets and timed our transfer perfectly—front of the boarding line, thank you very much. (Insider tip: start lining up in front of Gariful thirty minutes early or you may not get to sit next to your ride or die.) The €65 trip clocked in at 3 hours and 40 minutes, gliding past islands and suitcases alike (there were so many suitcases on the boat). I grabbed a cappuccino and a croissant from the café below, queued up Nobody Wants This on my iPad, and watched the Adriatic sparkle by. Not exactly a private yacht—but if I squinted…

Where To Stay in Dubrovnik

Up to now, I’ve stayed smack in the center of everything—great for exploring and avoiding those tiny Ubers that smell like regret and air freshener. But in Dubrovnik, I switched it up and booked Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik. Here’s why:

1️⃣ The view. It’s just outside the Old Town walls, with a front-row seat to them—and Dubrovnik is one of those cities that looks best from a distance, all medieval and smugly photogenic.

2️⃣ The location. Only a 5–7 minute stroll to the Ploče Gate. Don’t panic—it’s not Positano. The hill is gentle, and yes, I wore semi-high heels to dinner every night.

3️⃣ The perks. Private ocean access, indoor pool, spa, and multiple restaurants. We loved Prora, carved into the stone just steps from the water—basically, fine dining meets mermaid real estate.

The hotel price? €730 inclusive, per room per night. High season, high prices.

Day 1: Dubrovnik City Walls & MOMAD

My favorite Dubrovnik experience? Easy—walking the city walls. After a dreamy breakfast overlooking the Old Town, we threw on light clothes, comfy flats, and hit the cobblestones. I’d bought our Dubrovnik Passes online before we even left the U.S. (because organization is my love language), so when the gates opened at 8 a.m., we were first in line. And yes, everyone’s right—go early. It’s cooler, quieter, and 100% more magical.

Did the kids join at 8 a.m.? Please. They were still hibernating like jet-lagged marmots and didn’t surface until afternoon. Their loss—I was already halfway to my 10,000 steps and a new profile picture.

What’s so great about walking on a wall? For starters, you’re not actually teetering on the edge—there are sides! (Looking at you, Óbidos, Portugal—still recovering from that one.) It’s totally fine for school-age kids, just maybe skip it if your plus one doesn’t love uneven steps or surprise stair workouts. The views, though—wow. From way up high, you can see the city’s red rooftops, fortresses, and medieval defenses all perfectly laid out like a storybook map. It took us about two hours to circle the 1.2-mile perimeter with one very necessary cold drink stop (several cafés to choose from on the wall)—and roughly a thousand photos, because honestly, every angle was the angle.

After a leisurely oceanside lunch at Prora at Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik and a refreshing swim (with a brief flirtation with a nap), we wandered over to MOMAD—the Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik—just steps from our hotel. A hidden gem I hadn’t planned to visit, it turned out to be a beautiful surprise. Housed in the elegant Banac Palace, the museum showcases modern and contemporary Croatian art from the late 19th century to today. I spent a serene half hour admiring the collection and stepping onto the balcony to take in Tony Cragg’s striking sculpture exhibition framed by views of the Adriatic. Closed Mondays. Adults €20, students €10.

You know the Williams family loves a good excuse to dress up. Our first night in Dubrovnik did not disappoint—dinner at Vapor, the newly refreshed restaurant at Hotel Bellevue, perched dramatically on the cliffs above Miramare Bay. The terrace is all sleek nautical glamour, the view is pure postcard, and the sea bream ceviche? Let’s just say I considered proposing to it.

Day 2: Guided Old Town Tour & Cable Car

I usually like to start any trip with a city tour, but Dubrovnik had other plans—it was the Assumption of Mary, which basically means God rests, and so does everyone else. Shops closed, plans shuffled, tour bumped to day two. Our hotel arranged a guide to meet us in the lobby, and off we went. (Rookie move: I forgot to get her name or contact info—so much for my “organized traveler” reputation. I usually trust the hotel or look up who Rick Steves recommends. I skip his hotels and side-eye his restaurant picks, but when it comes to in-person tour guides, the man delivers.) Guide cost? €290 for three hours for four people.

My kids, now 18 and 21, are seasoned tour veterans—highlights include a crematorium visit in Kathmandu (because nothing says “family vacation” like active funerals). These days, I let them join the start, assess the boredom factor, and quietly vanish if necessary. Shockingly, they stayed for most of it. We hit all the major sites—Rector’s Palace, Sponza Palace, Stradun, the Franciscan Monastery, the Cathedral, and Onofrio Fountain. Compact, beautiful, easy to navigate, and wonderfully cared for. The Croatians really do take their history—and their holidays—seriously.

Our guide wasn’t done with us yet—between historical stops, she slipped in a little Game of Thrones trivia. Dubrovnik played double duty as King’s Landing in season two, appeared as Qarth in Daenerys’s storyline, and even starred in the infamous “Walk of Shame” scene. Let’s just say history and HBO collided beautifully. Below is just a taster of some of the GOT scenes our guide showed us in Old Town.

After all that shame walking, we’d earned lunch—and Wi-Fi. Thankfully, past me had the foresight to book Gradska Kavana Arsenal six weeks ahead (truly, give her an award). Our shaded terrace table overlooked the Old City Port, perfectly framed by St. John’s Fortress and the Lazareti complex. Between the squid, sea bass, and risotto, I briefly considered never leaving. Type-A planning: 1, spontaneous travelers: 0.

Full and happy, we headed to the Mount Srd cable car for our grand finale… which was a total flop. Sometimes research leads you to magic, sometimes it leads you to meh—and this was the latter. The three-minute ride up was fine, but the view? Completely photobombed by the cable car cables. Hard pass. Not even worth a pity post. TRUST ME: Save €30. You’ll get your best views and pictures from the city walls.

Dinner was at Posat, just outside the Pile Gate, where the whole world parades by. It’s open-air, complete with a live piano player and staff so attentive they might tuck you in afterward. The seafood was sparkling fresh (literally—there’s an aquarium where your dinner swims its final laps), and the pasta was divine. But the vibe? A little too familiar—lots of Americans and a few Europeans wearing baseball caps that deserved their own walk of shame.

If you want to eat like a local in Old Town, skip the obvious spots and head to M’arden—our Dubrovnik tour guide’s insider pick, tucked deep within the city walls. It’s hidden in the labyrinth of narrow lanes, an oasis of soft lighting and lush greenery that feels worlds away from the crowds outside. The menu features elegant, creative bites paired with some of Croatia’s best wines, all grounded in a philosophy of sustainability—both in what’s served and how the space honors its UNESCO-protected surroundings. Basically, it’s where eco-chic meets Mediterranean magic.

After dinner, gelato is a must. Over three days, we tried three spots in Old Town—including one our guide raved about (Gianni… bless her heart, but no). The family split down the middle: two votes for Mostro, two for Peppino’s. But since I’m the travel blogger, my pick wins by default. Photo evidence below, because democracy is overrated.

Day 3: Bosnia & Herzegovina or not?

I had big plans for Day 3. BIG PLANS. We were going to Mostar! Did that happen? Absolutely not. Bosnia & Herzegovina on August 15th decided to audition for the surface of the sun—106 degrees. My family loves me, but not enough to spontaneously combust for cultural enrichment. So, Mostar was postponed. (If you’re braver—or less attached to air conditioning—go with tour guide Julija Antunović from Dubrovnik Driving Guide, who came highly recommended by two friends.)

Why leave Dubrovnik at all? Because as stunning as it is, the city is surrounded by incredible day trips. And unlike Texas—where it takes three years and a tank of gas to get out—Dubrovnik is delightfully compact. You can:

  1. Hop the Elaphiti Islands — Šipan, Lopud, and Koločep, all blissfully scenic and blessedly breezy.
  2. Dip into Montenegro — Visit Kotor and its gorgeous bay, because who doesn’t love a dramatic coastline and a little passport stamp bragging?
  3. Brave Bosnia & Herzegovina (Mostar) — The iconic bridge, Ottoman charm, and Kravice Waterfalls await… preferably at a temperature below “oven preheat.”

We usually avoid Europe in August—too hot, too crowded, too many fellow travelers in matching linen sets. Plus, Croatians love their own weekend getaways to Montenegro and Bosnia, meaning the roads (and borders) are chaos. But Mostar’s still on my list—for the history and the architecture.

So what did we do instead? Fully commit to vacation mode. The Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik sits right on the water, with a private sun terrace and direct sea access, so “chilling at the hotel” felt downright virtuous. When we got restless, we’d dive into the Adriatic, read with our toes in the water, or wander into town under the noble guise of “shopping for souvenirs.”

And then… we had one of the best meals of our lives. Top five, right up there with French Laundry, Per Se and La Terrazza at Grand Hotel Tremezzo on Lake Como, Nautika absolutely blew us away. Perched at the edge of the sea by the Pile Gate, its terrace overlooks the Adriatic and the fortresses of Lovrijenac and Bokar—basically dinner with a medieval backdrop and a sea breeze. Housed in what was once Dubrovnik’s School of Maritime Studies, Nautika has been welcoming travelers and seafarers since 1881. The menu celebrates Croatian tradition with French and Italian finesse, the service was flawless, and the wine list was dangerously good. The waiters wore white gloves, for heaven’s sake—I half-expected them to present me with a tiara.

Who Will Love Dubrovnik?

Everyone with a pulse. This Pearl of the Adriatic is that rare combo of beauty, brains, and just-the-right-amount-of-drama. Think sun-kissed stone streets, cliffside cocktails, and sea-kayaking before sunset (because why not?). History buffs swoon, Instagrammers rejoice, and “Game of Thrones” fans practically start quoting Lannisters. And the best part? It’s Goldilocks-perfect—not too big like Istanbul, not too blah like Frankfurt—just right.

The Next Time I Head to the Balkans

I’ve got big plans: a rowboat moment on Slovenia’s fairytale Lake Bled, another round of Adriatic magic in Dubrovnik, a scenic stop at Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor, and a photo op (or ten) at Bosnia’s legendary Mostar Bridge.

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