Milan & Lake Como: Bellissimo!

With our 25th anniversary on the horizon, we knew we wanted a European adventure that checked all the boxes: jaw-dropping scenery, luxury hotels, and meals we’d still be talking about long after we got home. We debated going all-in on northern Italy or immersing ourselves in the Swiss Alps, but in a display of marital compromise, we decided to do both. The result? An unforgettable mash-up of Milan, Lake Como, St. Moritz, Arosa, and Zurich—equal parts glamour, mountains, pasta, and chocolate. Honestly, it may have been our best anniversary decision since saying “I do.” What follows is the Milan-to-Lake Como portion of our adventure…

La Dolce Vita, Milan Edition

We started in Milan, the main gateway to Northern Italy for most U.S. travelers heading to the Italian Lakes or the Dolomites. Knowing we’d eventually return to Milan on our way to exploring Lake Garda and Verona, we intentionally limited ourselves to about 24 hours in the city—just enough time to shake off the jet lag and ease into vacation mode before continuing on to Lake Como.

Where to Stay in Milan

We checked into Château Monfort, a five-star Relais & Châteaux boutique hotel housed in a beautiful early 20th-century building at Corso Concordia 1. With just 77 rooms, a restaurant, and a spa, it’s conveniently located just a 15-minute walk from the Duomo and steps from the Tricolore metro station and nearby tram and bus stops. Our room was spacious, the staff was warm and attentive, and the décor was delightfully romantic and whimsical—all without breaking the bank. Summer rates range from about $300 to $1,200 per night, depending on the room category, so you can choose from several levels of luxury.

What to Do in Milan: The New Fashion Accessory? A Pastry Shop.

Make time for Milan’s fashionable pastry scene. In recent years, luxury brands have discovered that selling handbags is nice, but selling handbags and pastries is even better. Rather than building cafés from scratch, fashion houses have been snapping up some of Milan’s most historic pastry shops as part of their push into luxury lifestyle and hospitality. LVMH owns the nearly 200-year-old Pasticceria Cova on Via Montenapoleone and Prada owns Marchesi 1824, famous for its elegant interiors, artisanal chocolates, pastries, and panettone. Not to be outdone, Louis Vuitton partnered with the Michelin-starred Cerea family to open Da Vittorio Café inside its newly renovated flagship store in 2025. The result? In Milan, even your coffee break can come with serious fashion credentials. Here is our tea from Marchesi 1824 at Via Santa Maria alla Porta 11/a and me wandering the streets nearby…

Duomo Cathedral: The Only Thing in Milan More Dramatic Than Fashion Week

Should you visit the Duomo? Have you even been to Milan if you haven’t? This Gothic masterpiece—the largest church in Italy—is home to more than 3,400 statues, spectacular stained-glass windows, and a construction project that stretched across six centuries. But the real showstopper is the rooftop, where you can wander among intricate marble spires and enjoy sweeping views of Milan. We tackled the roughly 250 steps (there is an elevator too), but be warned: in parts the stairways are narrow, steep, and downright steamy in summer. Insider tip: Aim for around 9:00 a.m. or 90 minutes before sunset to avoid the worst of the crowds and heat.

Where My Credit Card Started to Sweat: Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Located beside the Duomo, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is often called “Milan’s drawing room.” This stunning 19th-century arcade dazzles with soaring glass-vaulted ceilings, intricate mosaic floors, and flagship boutiques from luxury brands like Prada and Louis Vuitton. Fashion lovers shouldn’t miss the original Prada store, opened by Mario Prada in 1913, which still features its original mahogany shelving, checkered marble floors, and elegant early 20th-century details. For the best experience, arrive before 10:00 a.m. and enjoy the Galleria before the crowds arrive.

Milan Runs on Espresso: Caffè Tastings

Milan’s café culture is not to be missed, so we made time for a stop at Lavazza’s flagship store, conveniently located between the Duomo and La Scala. While we can get Lavazza in the U.S., we opted to pay for table service and enjoy a tasting of Lavazza’s premium 1895 specialty coffees, featuring single-origin and microlot blends. Yes, it was pricier than the typical €1.50 neighborhood espresso, but between the excellent coffee and the espresso-infused popcorn, it felt like a worthwhile splurge.

One Night in Milan, One Perfect Risotto

With just one night in Milan before heading to Lake Como, we went all in on Milanese cuisine. Dinner at Clotilde Brera, named for Princess Clotilde (Napoleon’s wife), was a treat. The charming, greenery-filled rooftop terrace overlooked the Basilica of San Marco. And the Risotto alla Milanese I stole off my husband’s plate? Absolutely worth the trip!

Lake Como is for Lovers

When to Visit?

The best time to visit Lake Como is April through October. From November to March, many hotels, restaurants, and tour operators close or scale back operations. April through June brings nice temperatures in the 60s and 70s, blooming gardens, and gorgeous wisteria-draped villas. Coming from Texas, April and early May sound a little chilly for my taste, but the spring scenery is hard to beat!

July and August are peak season, with higher prices, crowded ferries, and plenty of tourists. I’d especially avoid Ferragosto (August 15), when Italians will flock to the lake region and coastal beaches. September and early October are excellent alternatives, with lingering warmth, thinner crowds, and a more relaxed atmosphere.

My pick? Early to mid-June. The weather is warming up, but many European schools haven’t yet broken for summer. We arrived on June 29 and never felt overwhelmed by crowds, although I’d booked our restaurants and tours two to three months ahead. Reserve your hotel as far in advance as possible, especially if you want a prime lakefront location. This is one destination where the view is worth paying for!

Getting There: Train or Private Car Transfer?

Getting from Milan to Lake Como is relatively easy and fast by train (about an hour), but you have to factor in the additional time to taxi or ferry to your hotel from Como city. Trains range in price from 68-82€ and taxis could be just as much or more, depending on your destination. Como San Giovanni in Como city, is the primary hub for national and international trains, including EuroCity and Trenitalia services from Milan Centrale (40 mins) and Switzerland.

We wanted to make the most of our time, so I asked our hotel to book a private door-to-door transfer from Milan to Bellagio. We avoided hauling our suitcases around or finding a taxi and paid 254€ for two people (127€/person). Definitely recommend spending a little extra for a smooth transfer!

How Long Should I Stay on Lake Como?

Ideally, you’ll arrive in Lake Como, fall in love with an Italian count (or countess), and never have to leave. But assuming that plan doesn’t work out, I’d recommend 3–4 days. That’s enough time to explore the magnificent Villa del Balbianello and Villa Carlotta, cruise the lake by private boat, enjoy lunch and shopping in Bellagio, wander the charming streets of Varenna, and visit Como for a ride up the Brunate Funicular. Of course, if you do meet that count, feel free to disregard my advice entirely!

Where to Stay on the Lake

You have so many incredible hotel choices on Lake Como! The best towns to stay on Lake Como are Bellagio, Varenna and Menaggio, because they sit in the middle of the lake and have easy ferry connections to everywhere on the lake. Plus, most day-trippers leave by evening, so nighttime in these lakefront towns are quiet and romantic.

Bellagio: Known as the “Pearl of the Lake,” Bellagio sits at the split where the lake parts into two southern branches. It offers incredible views, upscale shops, and romantic cobblestone steps. It can be very busy in peak season and is expensive, but it has prime central ferry access.

We stayed at Grand Hotel Serbelloni in the heart of Bellagio, a grand 19th-century hotel set directly on the shores of Lake Como. Stepping inside felt like stepping back in time, with marble staircases, glittering chandeliers, frescoed ceilings, and gilt-framed artwork everywhere we looked.

My favorite spot on the property was the outdoor pool, tucked between the lake and centuries-old Italian gardens dotted with palm trees. Floating in the pool while staring out at Lake Como? Not a bad way to spend an afternoon.

The location is hard to beat. The hotel sits right in the heart of Bellagio, just steps from its boutiques, cafés, and famous silk shops. The photogenic Salita Serbelloni, with its steep stone steps lined with artisan shops and restaurants, is practically outside your door. The Bellagio Imbarcadero Ferry Terminal, a five-minute walk from the hotel, has gorgeous Art Nouveau architecture with an open arch framing its ticket windows and the prominent Navigazione Lago di Como signage facing the water. I’ll talk more about it later.

A little farther along the lakefront in Bellagio, you’ll find Villa Melzi, with its romantic English-style gardens, centuries-old trees, and brilliant azaleas. Don’t miss the pale-blue Moorish-style pavilion perched right at the water’s edge—it’s one of those gorgeous Lake Como photo spots where it’s almost impossible to take a bad picture.

Some other towns to consider:

Varenna: A charming, romantic, and walkable village on the eastern shore, Varenna is quieter than Bellagio, but it also offers fewer hotels and restaurants. It features direct train connections from Milan and a great no-car layout with easy ferry access. 

Menaggio: This flatter, more open town works best for families. It has a more relaxed atmosphere, a nice lakeside promenade, and good central ferry connections without overwhelming crowds. The hotel accommodations are also more budget-friendly, but the views are a bit less dramatic.

Want to splurge? Stay at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo in Tremezzina and prepare to be dazzled. This famous 1910 art nouveau palace features an iconic floating pool right on the lake and direct views across the lake to Bellagio. Location-wise, it is steps away from the botanical gardens of Villa Carlotta and a short, 15-minute Venetian motor launch ride from Bellagio and Villa del Balbianello. More on Grand Hotel Tremezzo later!

What to do on Lake Como

Grand Villas & Gorgeous Gardens

Touring Lake Como’s absurdly beautiful villas was high on my list, but I wanted to see them the way they were meant to be seen: from the water, preferably while pretending I owned one. After way too much research, I booked a seven-hour tour with Lake Como For You aboard one of their open-top Venetian water taxis.

Since we were staying in Bellagio, we hopped on a car ferry (no car required!) to Varenna, where we met our guide at the ferry terminal. Private tours with Lake Como For You were available, but were really pricey. We chose the small-group option for €370 per person, which included an English-speaking guide, admission to all the sites, an olive oil tasting, lunch, and a fabulous day exploring Lake Como with multiple stops. The seven hours literally flew past, and we really liked everyone on the trip.

We began at a beautifully restored historic stone mill perched over a rushing mountain stream in the hills above Varenna, where we sampled locally produced olive oil, Valsassina cheeses, cured meats, and wine while soaking up spectacular views from Castello di Vezio. From there, we headed into Varenna for a guided stroll through its steep, winding alleys, learning about the village’s Celtic origins before stopping for lunch at the elegant Hotel Royal Victoria.

After lunch, it was time for the best part: boarding our open-top Venetian water taxi and cruising across the lake to Villa del Balbianello, where we had 2½ hours to explore. Along the way, we passed Villa La Cassinella, associated with Virgin Airlines owner Sir Richard Branson (see villa pictured below with the tall, skinny Italian cypress trees in front of it), and Taylor Swift’s Lake Como rental, Villa Sola Cabiati (see villa pictured below with the wrought-iron gates and symmetrical stairs leading to the water).

Approaching Villa del Balbianello from the water was spectacular. Perched on the tip of the Dosso d’Avedo peninsula, the 18th-century villa was built on the site of a former Franciscan monastery, with two old church towers still standing on the property. This place is gorgeous. Terraced gardens tumble toward the lake, century-old oak trees are sculpted into giant umbrellas, and the famous three-arched portico perfectly frames Lake Como and Bellagio. Every staircase, terrace, archway, and lake view looks ready for a wedding photo. You will start casually wondering what it costs to marry off your daughter here. You will then Google it. You will then stop wondering.

Inside the villa were 18th century artifacts from the last private owner of the estate, Count Guido Monzino, an explorer who led the first Italian expedition to summit Everest. Outside, movie fans will recognize locations from Star Wars: Episode II – Attack of the Clones and Casino Royale.

Hollywood credentials aside, Balbianello doesn’t really have a bad angle. It may be one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever visited—and on Lake Como, that is saying something.

A few days later, we made a second foray by water, this time to Villa Carlotta. We arranged a private Venetian-style motorboat through the Grand Hotel Serbelloni and boarded right from the hotel’s pier in Bellagio. Gliding across Lake Como in our own boat, I felt like Amal Clooney arriving at the Venice Film Festival—minus the couture and paparazzi, but with my own sexy husband instead of George. Personally, I thought I got the better deal.

For €160, we had private transfers to and from the hotel pier plus 1½ hours to explore the villa, which felt like a surprisingly reasonable splurge.

Villa Carlotta has a completely different personality from Villa del Balbianello. Part world-class art museum, part botanical wonderland, it pairs an elegant villa filled with paintings and sculptures with sprawling gardens overlooking the lake. You can wander through formal Italian gardens, a bamboo garden, and—if you visit in spring—a spectacular display of more than 150 varieties of azaleas exploding in pink, purple, red, and white.

Don’t skip the inside of the villa which has gorgeous doors that open to views of the lake. Inside, you can also visit the rooms of Princess Charlotte of Prussia, complete with her furniture, personal belongings, and a portrait of her at age twenty. She received the entire villa as a wedding gift in 1850, which really makes that KitchenAid mixer on your registry seem a little underwhelming.

Trading the Villas for a Day in Como

Another favorite Lake Como outing was a day trip to Como town, which feels refreshingly different from the glamorous resort villages around the lake. Como has a bustling medieval center, grand architecture, and a centuries-old silk industry—but it also feels like an actual Italian city where people live, work, shop, and presumably do not spend all day posing beside azaleas.

Getting there was part of the fun. From our hotel in Bellagio, we walked three minutes to the public pier (see picture below) and boarded a hydrofoil, the lake’s high-speed ferry. Unlike the leisurely battello, which takes around two hours, the hydrofoil skims across the lake and gets you from Bellagio to Como in roughly 45 minutes to an hour. Our hotel arranged the tickets, so all we had to do was show up at the pier and listen carefully enough not to board a boat headed somewhere else.

Insider Tip: Don’t count on Uber in Lake Como, and be prepared for eye-wateringly expensive taxis! With very few licensed taxis operating around the lake, narrow and congested shoreline roads, and extra charges for luggage, nighttime rides, holidays, and airport transfers, even a short trip can cost a small fortune. Trust me: save your euros for something more enjoyable and stick to the ferries or a private boat.

Once in Como, we met our private guide, Lorenza, for a three-hour walking tour arranged through our hotel for €350 (you can find similar tours on Get Your Guide). She gave us the history and context behind the sights, navigated us through the old town, and joined us for the funicular ride up to Brunate. Afterward, we stayed in town for a leisurely lunch at the historic Ristorante Imbarcadero and a little shopping.

Our first stop was the magnificent Como Cathedral, a white-marble landmark whose construction began in the 14th century and which you can spot from the lake as you approach the city. From there, we wandered through the historic center—a pedestrian-friendly maze of cobblestone piazzas, medieval walls, cafés, trattorias, and elegant silk boutiques. Como has been famous for silk production for centuries, so this is an excellent place to shop for scarves and other silk goods. Consider yourself warned.

Next, we boarded the historic funicular to Brunate, the hillside village nicknamed the “Balcony of the Alps.” The little railway has been climbing the mountain since the late 19th century and makes the steep trip in about seven minutes. Sit on the right side going up for the best lake views and photos.

We could see for miles across the lake and surrounding mountains. There are also a handful of cafés where you can order a drink, enjoy the breeze, and congratulate yourself for gaining all that elevation without taking a single step.

Round-trip funicular tickets are only a few euros, making this one of the easiest—and least expensive—ways to get a completely different perspective on Lake Como. Between the cathedral, silk shopping, medieval streets, and Brunate views, Como made a great counterpoint to all that villa-hopping glamour.

Shop, Sip & Stroll Through Bellagio

One of the pleasures of Bellagio is simply wandering its ridiculously photogenic streets and popping into the shops. Unlike some glamorous Italian resort towns—looking at you, Capri—Bellagio still has a charming mix of family-run workshops, specialty boutiques, and independent shops rather than an overabundance of international luxury brands.

You’ll find hand-carved wooden rolling pins, Italian leather handbags, perfume in beautiful artisan glass bottles, and silk scarves that will suddenly seem absolutely essential to your wardrobe. L’Angolo delle Idee was a favorite stop, filled with gorgeous, handmade glass Christmas ornaments. There are also plenty of more affordable boutiques selling summer clothes and accessories, so you don’t have to refinance your house to bring home a souvenir. I bought the blue striped dress pictured below while I was wandering the streets of Bellagio.

And because all that shopping is exhausting, Bellagio has plenty of pretty cafés and restaurants for strategic refueling. Caffè Rossi, overlooking the ferry dock, was a lovely spot for a morning cappuccino and croissant. For lunch, the outdoor restaurant at Hotel Suisse, directly across from the pier, served classic Italian dishes and beautifully prepared fresh lake fish—perfect for a leisurely lunch with a view.

And then there’s gelato. Gelateria del Borgo, tucked along Via Garibaldi near the church, gets my completely unofficial but highly enthusiastic vote for the best in Bellagio. Shop, cappuccino, lunch, gelato, repeat. It’s a demanding itinerary, but someone has to do it.

The Icing on the Cake: Dinner at Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Trattoria Baita Belvedere and Grand Hotel Serbelloni

If you are looking for a night out that will top your list of best meals ever, Lake Como will deliver in spades.

Grand Hotel Tremezzo is one of Lake Como’s most iconic hotels, and for good reason. This is the place to pull out all the stops—dinner jacket, heels, full glam. Even getting there is part of the experience! Depending on where you’re staying, you can splurge on a private motorboat transfer (ask your hotel to arrange one) and arrive in true Lake Como style. Or you can do what we did and take the public ferry. I was initially worried we’d look ridiculous boarding a ferry in our fancy clothes, but apparently we weren’t the only ones unwilling to pay a small fortune for a taxi.

Timing is everything when it comes to making the most of this experience. Plan to arrive 1½ to 2 hours before sunset to soak up one of Lake Como’s most spectacular views. This glamorous five-star hotel sits right on the water, facing Bellagio, with the green peaks of the Grigne Mountains rising in the distance. Just offshore, its iconic floating pool, complete with orange-and-white striped umbrellas, adds another splash of old-school Italian glamour.

After snapping a few obligatory photos on your way in, head to T Bar for a pre-dinner cocktail. If the weather cooperates, snag a table on the large terrace, where candlelight, live piano music, and sweeping lake views create an amazing atmosphere. The photo below shows the lovely little snacks we enjoyed while taking in the scenery—and doing a bit of people-watching, of course. If it’s too chilly to sit outside, the bar’s gorgeous Art Deco ceilings, colorful velvet armchairs, and plush sofas make the interior every bit as inviting.

Insider Tip: Ask your hotel to reserve a table at T Bar at least one hour before your dinner reservation at La Terrazza. This is not an experience you want to rush! And brace yourself for the bill. This is ultra-luxury Lake Como, where even a modest round of drinks and a bottle of water can easily set you back €60 or more. Consider it the price of admission to one of the prettiest cocktail hours in Italy.

When you’re ready for dinner, the hotel’s signature restaurant, La Terrazza, is just steps away. It’s the only restaurant in the world offering a complete menu dedicated to the legendary Italian chef Gualtiero Marchesi, and it promptly earned a spot among my top five dining experiences of all time. The tasting menu was extraordinary, featuring Marchesi’s iconic saffron risotto crowned with a shimmering square of 24-karat gold leaf (pictured below)—as delicious as it was dazzling. Another standout was Dripping di Pesce, an artistic seafood creation inspired by the splatter paintings of Jackson Pollock. Who knew dinner could double as a visit to a modern art museum? Five thousand stars. No notes.

Trattoria Baita Belvedere

Looking for a jaw-dropping dining experience without the full-glamour production of Grand Hotel Tremezzo? Look no further than Trattoria Baita Belvedere, tucked into the hills above Bellagio. I discovered this gem thanks to travel GOAT Rick Steves. Now, Rick isn’t normally my go-to guy for fine-dining recommendations, but WOW. He absolutely knocked this one out of the park!

We lucked into a picture-perfect evening, with spectacular panoramic views over Bellagio and the lake below. Unlike the polished glamour of the lakeside grand hotels, Baita Belvedere has a wonderfully rustic, cozy atmosphere, with traditional mountain-style wooden furnishings and a relaxed, convivial vibe. It’s the kind of place where you might strike up a conversation with the couple at the next table. The menu leans toward hearty Italian comfort food, but don’t let the casual setting fool you—the dishes were beautifully presented and absolutely delicious, as you can see in the photos below.

Insider Tip: Ask your hotel to contact the restaurant to arrange a minivan (round-trip) pickup in Bellagio for the winding ride up the hillside. And here’s a little advice from someone who takes her dinner views VERY seriously: Be the first person out of that van if they pick up more than one group! You’ll want to snag one of the coveted tables on the lower terrace, where there’s nothing between you and that glorious Lake Como panorama. A little competitive disembarking never hurt anyone.

For our final dinner on Lake Como, we headed to Ristorante Mistral, the Michelin-starred restaurant at our hotel, the Grand Hotel Serbelloni. Set in a beautiful glass-enclosed veranda at the tip of Bellagio, it offers spectacular views of the lake, accompanied by wonderful Mediterranean cuisine, attentive service, and soft piano music. It was a lovely, romantic way to end our stay.

The elegant setting calls for dressing up a bit, and the restaurant takes its dress code seriously—men are required to wear long trousers and closed-toe shoes. We opted for the seven-course tasting menu rather than ordering à la carte. After all, when you’re spending your last evening on Lake Como, why suddenly start practicing restraint?

After three glorious days soaking up the beauty of Lake Como, it was time to trade Italian lakeside glamour for the Swiss Alps. Next stop: St. Moritz! Stay tuned for part two of our adventure.