Our Galapagos Cruise and Quito City Break
Ecuador and the Galápagos offer some of the most mind-blowing nature on the planet. On land, you’ll meet Giant Tortoises the size of ottomans and Blue-Footed Boobies high-stepping and stomping in an elaborate mating dance routine. Slip into the water and it’s a whole new cast: penguins, marine iguanas, sharks, and whatever else decides to swim by and judge your snorkel form.
Who will enjoy this trip?
This might not be the ideal multi-gen getaway—unless Grandpa enjoys scrambling over lava rocks and swimming in choppy seas like he’s training for the Senior Olympics. But for older kids who love exercise, animals, and evenings so low-key they basically horizontal-meditate, this trip is perfection. A forced tech detox also works wonders for their ability to make eye contact and speak in full sentences.
A note on swimming:
I am not a great swimmer. The rest of my family? Part-dolphin. While I was respectfully clinging to my life jacket, they were joyfully diving down with snorkel headsets trying to spot hammerheads. Do not panic if you aren’t the Michael Phelps of the Galápagos—the boat crew kept me perfectly safe, and I still felt like I was having fun right alongside the rest of the fish… just bobbing on the surface.
This also makes an excellent friends’ trip, especially during the cruise days when you’ll need to create your own entertainment. I’m looking at you Vip Kapoor.
How to Pack for Ecuador
First, it helps to know the Galápagos has two distinct seasons. December to May is the warm season—perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and watching animals in full “please notice me” mating mode. June through November is the cool season—ideal for breezy hikes and spotting extra marine life thanks to the Humboldt Current rolling in like nature’s conveyor belt.
We visited in late May through early June and found the weather blissfully drama-free—60–80°F on deck and in Quito. That said, this is an active holiday, so pack smart and bring items that can moonlight in multiple roles—think wardrobe multitaskers, not divas.
Shoes (aka: your real travel companions)
- Trekking shoes for rocky terrain—lava, sand, and whatever else the islands dream up.
- Water shoes for hopping on/off boats without reenacting a baby seal wipeout.
- Boat shoes for casual deck time.
- A dressier pair for Quito dinners, where you’re no longer damp, sandy, or smelling faintly of sea lion.
Clothing
Layers are your best friends. Mornings start cool, afternoons get spicy, and as you climb higher, the wind will absolutely try to give you a “model moment” you did not request. Pack shorts, lightweight safari pants, and moisture-wicking tops. A light jacket can live around your waist when not in use, and a rain jacket is non-negotiable. Evenings on deck call for sweaters and jeans, and don’t forget your swimsuit for your near-daily wildlife plunges.
Pro tip:
This is not the time for your cutest bikini—dives with turtles, sharks, and starfish require a suit with more coverage and fewer opportunities for a National Geographic–adjacent wardrobe malfunction. Pack multiple swimsuits and toss in coordinating shorts for climbing in and out of boats, or your modesty will disappear faster than your footing on a wet ladder.
Gear
Bring your big camera lens—this is the Olympics of wildlife photography: birds, turtles, sea lions, and reptiles galore. Binoculars are essential too (maybe two, unless you want the kids wrestling on the deck). Spotting tiny birds tucked into tangled trees is basically an athletic event.
All Aboard: Why Cruising is the Best Way to See the Islands
We flew Dallas → Miami → Quito and spent our first night at the perfectly convenient Wyndham Quito Airport Hotel, because the next morning—8:00 a.m. sharp—we were back at the airport for a quick two-hour hop to Baltra, where our Ocean Spray luxury 16-passenger catamaran awaited its adoring public.
I spent hours comparing cruise options because I wanted none of the chaos of a floating theme park (not today, Royal Caribbean). Smaller boats can slip into remote coves, dodge the crowds, and deliver the kind of up-close encounters you actually fly to the Galápagos for. For four nights and five days, Ocean Spray delivered all of that and then some. The staff was warm and genuinely funny, the rooms were shockingly spacious (we booked adjacent Double Golden Staterooms), and the food? Fabulous. We even had a floating BBQ one night—every bit as decadent as it sounds and twice as memorable.
We also lucked out with our fellow passengers: a lively family of ten celebrating someone’s vet-school acceptance. They were fun, patient, seasoned travelers—and most importantly, fully committed to the itinerary. (Nothing worse than people who sigh at penguins like they’ve seen it all.)
Some travelers consider staying at a safari-style lodge instead of cruising, but (in my humble opinion) if you only have four or five days in the Galápagos, a small ship wins—hands down. The distances are short, so you can enjoy a morning excursion, sail over lunch, and jump straight into a completely different adventure that afternoon. Lodges, on the other hand, require long daily cruises just to reach the same spots—and since most islands require a licensed Galápagos National Park guide, you won’t gain any extra freedom by staying on land.
And don’t stress about seasickness—the waters here are surprisingly calm. We stayed upright, human-colored, and fully functional the entire time.
Galapagos Itinerary
🐧 Baltra & Bartolomé
After landing in Baltra, we boarded the Ocean Spray for a welcome lunch and our first adventure: Bartolomé Island, one of the most iconic spots in the Galápagos. Its volcanic hills and boardwalk trails look straight out of another planet, with penguins, flamingos, sea turtles, and hawks making regular cameos. We hiked to a stunning viewpoint (it was so freaking windy, I had flashbacks to a Hong Kong typhoon from ten years ago), then we cruised by Pinnacle Rock by dinghy, and spent the afternoon snorkeling and soaking up paradise.
🦩 Genovesa
Remote, wild, and worth every nautical mile, Genovesa feels like the edge of the world. We cruised in by panga (a small, motorized, open, fiberglass dinghy), then climbed Prince Philip’s Steps—a short but steep staircase leading to booby nesting colonies that double as a live-action nature documentary. At the top, the terrain flattens out for an easy stroll among short-eared owls, storm petrels, and Nazca boobies giving major “this is our island” energy.
Down below, the adventure continued with snorkeling along the cliffs and kayaking through turquoise water, where fur seals, sea lions, and the occasional hammerhead shark made appearances. It was otherworldly, and just the right mix of “wow” and “maybe I’ll stay on the boat.”
🌋 Santiago
Santiago Island brings the drama—rugged lava landscapes, black-sand beaches, and wildlife that refuses to blend in. We landed at Espumilla Beach, a major turtle nesting site, framed by Palo Santo forest and dotted with Darwin’s finches and Galápagos hawks. Behind the beach, a small lagoon shimmered with flamingos and wading birds showing off their pink.
In the afternoon, we explored Puerto Egas, where erosion has carved surreal caves and tide pools teeming with life. Marine iguanas, fur seals, and neon-bright Sally Lightfoot crabs crowded the shore—the ultimate island welcoming committee.
🐦 North Seymour & Santa Cruz
North Seymour may only be 1.9 square kilometers, but it’s bursting with wildlife. A circular trail winds through some of the most active seabird colonies in the Galápagos, where frigate birds puff their red chests like they’re on dating apps. Keep an eye out for land iguanas, sea lions, and the occasional snake making a cameo.
After lunch, we disembarked at Santa Cruz, the lively heart of the Galápagos with about 12,000 residents and a surprising amount of hustle for a volcanic island. Our first stop was the Charles Darwin Research Station, home to the Fausto Llerena Tortoise Center, where conservationists are saving the islands’ beloved giants one slow step at a time.
We finished in the misty highlands, where giant tortoises roam freely through lush forest and lava tunnels. Watching them lumber through the greenery and wallow in mud pools was oddly calming—like a prehistoric yoga retreat.
🦭 Mosquera Islet & Baltra
On our final morning aboard the Ocean Spray, we woke early for one last shore excursion to Mosquera Islet—a tiny stretch of sand between Baltra and Seymour that’s home to a lively colony of sea lions. They lounged, barked, and played in the surf like they were putting on a farewell show. If you’re lucky, you might even spot dolphins or an orca cruising through the channel.
Then it was back to Baltra for our flight back to Quito, sun-kissed, salty, and grateful for every wild, wonderful moment.
Food On-Board the Ocean Spray
Breakfast and lunch were buffet-style, while dinner was a plated four-course meal with two main options each night. The menu mixed Ecuadorian specialties with ultra-fresh island seafood. The standout was the outdoor BBQ on the bar deck—piled high with lobster, crab, fish, and perfectly grilled meat. The chef handled dietary needs (like vegetarian dishes) with ease and advance notice, so everyone onboard felt well fed.
The Verdict: Would I Return to the Galapagos?
Probably not. I’ve accepted that I’m only mildly interested in animals—deep admiration, zero desire for an encore. But I’m so grateful we did this trip before the kids went to college. It gave us rare, unhurried time together and a relaxed way to celebrate my son’s whirlwind senior year.
It also forced us off our screens and into nature—a full family reboot. I even learned to bird-watch, a hobby I’d previously reserved for the “quirky retiree” set. For that alone, I’ll forever love this trip, even if the iguanas won’t be seeing me again. Five stars. Would recommend. Won’t repeat.
48 Hours in Quito: Chocolate, Churches & Plazas
After our 2.5-hour Avianca flight from Baltra, we were thrilled to finally explore the historic, high-altitude Andean capital of Quito. My sister-in-law is half Ecuadorian, so this trip had been on our list for years—and it more than delivered. Quito’s beautifully preserved historic center—the world’s very first UNESCO World Heritage Site—offers eclectic museums, a thriving coffee and chocolate culture, lively plazas, unique architectural gems like the Basilica del Voto Nacional, and a mild, comfortable climate that makes wandering a joy.
Where to Stay in Quito
High-end hotels in Quito are few, but Casa Gangotena is the clear standout—and its location will stay with me forever. Set on the corner of Plaza de San Francisco in the heart of Old Town (a six-minute walk from Plaza de la Independencia), this restored 18th-century mansion blends old-world glamour with modern polish.
Our room overlooked the plaza, and every morning we threw open the doors to let in the cool Andean breeze and the hum of the city waking below. Inside, it’s all soaring ceilings, carved wooden doors, sweeping staircases, and original frescoes. Roses adorned every corner—a nod to Ecuador’s status as one of the world’s top rose exporters, thanks to its perfect year-round growing conditions.
As a Relais & Châteaux property, the service strikes that rare balance of polished and personal. Liveried doormen open doors before you even reach for them, the concierge anticipates what you didn’t know you needed, and every staff member makes you feel like you’re the reason they came to work that day. Breakfast at Cedrón was also a daily delight—flaky pastries, tropical fruit, and Ecuador’s legendary hot chocolate.
Verdict: Casa Gangotena nails location, service, and atmosphere. Stay here—you’ll thank me later.
What To Do in Quito
🏛️ Explore Quito’s Historic Center
There’s no better way to get your bearings in a new city than by walking it with a local. I booked our four-hour tour through our hotel—US$280 for four people, including a guide, entrance fees, and transportation—and it was worth every penny.
We started right in the heart of it all: Plaza de la Independencia (Independence Square), affectionately known as Plaza Grande. This is the historic core of Quito’s UNESCO-listed Old Town and home to some of Ecuador’s most iconic landmarks—Carondelet Palace, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Archbishop’s Palace, the Municipal Palace, and the elegant, pink-hued Hotel Plaza Grande anchoring one corner.
From there, we stepped back in time, visiting several magnificent 16th- and 17th-century churches—most memorably, the San Francisco Monastery, whose construction began just five days after Quito’s founding in 1534. It’s the oldest and largest religious complex in the Americas and a UNESCO World Heritage treasure.
The monastery itself is sprawling—three churches, multiple cloisters, and a museum of religious art. Its serene courtyards, lined with Doric columns and palm trees, felt like a hidden sanctuary. I could’ve stayed there forever—but then I’d have missed the climb to the Bell Tower. From the top, we soaked in sweeping views of Plaza San Francisco, our hotel (Casa Gangotena), the friary’s vast courtyard, and the historic center framed by the Andes. Five stars, no notes.
🎨 Stroll Down La Ronda
La Ronda is one of Quito’s oldest and most charming lanes—a narrow, cobblestone, pedestrian-only street lined with colorful colonial-era buildings and flower-filled balconies practically begging to be photographed. By day (and even more so at night), it hums with life. Wander from one artisan shop to the next, where locals craft and sell traditional toys, Panama hats (which are actually Ecuadorian), and silver jewelry. The surrounding streets are bright and welcoming too—musicians strumming guitars, artists displaying their work, vendors chatting with passersbys, and police gliding by on Segways, keeping watch with a 21st-century flair.
⛰️ Climb El Panecillo for the View of a Lifetime
Get ready to be dazzled! From the top of El Panecillo, you’ll be treated to a 360-degree panorama of Quito—its historic center, sleek northern districts, and, on a clear day, snow-capped volcanoes like Cotopaxi shimmering in the distance. The Our Lady of El Panecillo statue is truly mesmerizing—the tallest aluminum sculpture in the world and a rare depiction of the Virgin Mary with wings. She stands gracefully atop a chained serpent and globe, watching over the city like its celestial guardian. Cost: Entry to the hill is free, with a small fee (around $1 USD) to access the monument’s viewing platform for an even higher vantage point.
Insider tip: Take an inexpensive Uber ($2–$5 USD) from Old Town to the top—skip the hike, as petty crime has been reported along the walking route. Our hotel assured us the summit is safe and patrolled by police, and we felt completely comfortable. Aim for a morning visit when the skies are clearest—by afternoon, clouds often roll in and your volcano views might just disappear.
🗿 Discover Pre-Columbian Treasures at Casa del Alabado
Our Quito friends suggested we visit Casa del Alabado, and we’re so glad we listened. This small but fascinating museum is dedicated to pre-Columbian art and culture, with over 5,000 artifacts (about 500 on display), some dating back to 4000 BCE—beautifully preserved and thoughtfully presented. Exhibits are arranged by theme—cosmology, shamanism, the afterlife—offering a vivid glimpse into the spiritual world of ancient Ecuadorian civilizations. Housed in a restored 17th-century colonial home with tranquil courtyards and a charming café, it’s the perfect quiet escape and easy to explore in just a couple of hours.
🍫 Chocolate Tastings
Whatever you do, don’t leave Ecuador without tasting its world-class chocolate.
We kicked things off at República del Cacao, touring their petite museum, learning how cocoa becomes gold, and sampling chef-grade bars used by chocolatiers around the world. (Fun fact: that fancy Swiss chocolate you love? Odds are, its beans were born in Ecuador.) The shop leans a bit corporate—they have duty-free locations in Colombia, Peru, and the Dominican Republic—but it’s well done and tells the story beautifully.
For a more authentic, mom-and-pop vibe, head to the Minka Chocolate Experience. Founders Jorge and Cristina Martínez are on a mission to create the world’s best chocolate, and after sampling our way through truffles, espresso, and a cookie my daughter still swears is “the best of her life” (sorry, Grandma), I believe them. Their upstairs café overlooks Plaza San Francisco, and it’s the kind of place you could accidentally spend the entire afternoon. Seventy stars. Go now. Bring stretchy pants.
Back at Casa Gangotena, we ended the night with traditional Quiteño hot chocolate—a rich, velvety drink whisked with a molinillo and served with cubes of fresh farmer’s cheese. As the cheese slowly melts, it adds a salty-sweet balance that sounds strange but tastes like absolute genius.
Where to Eat in Quito
We were lucky enough to have friends in Quito, so one afternoon we met for lunch at Café Plaza Grande, inside the elegant Hotel Plaza Grande, overlooking Plaza de la Independencia—where Quito’s past and present collide in a swirl of history, architecture, and everyday life. The building itself has quite the résumé: originally granted to Francisco Pizarro, one of Quito’s founders, in the 16th century, it later housed aristocratic families before reopening as The Majestic Hotel, the city’s first luxury stay, in 1943.
We tucked into Ecuadorian classics before ordering the restaurant’s signature helados de paila (traditional ice cream made in a brass pot). That’s when things got theatrical. Out came our waiter in a long purple robe and tall cone-shaped hood—dressed as a cucurucho, a traditional penitential figure—presenting our ice cream amid a swirl of dry ice. Honestly, I’ve never been served sorbet by someone who looked like they might also lead a medieval procession. Absolutely fascinating.
We had two standout dinners during our stay—each completely different, and both incredible.
For our first night, we booked Zazu, a top-rated modern Ecuadorian restaurant helmed by Chef Wilson Alpala in the La Pradera neighborhood. The menu reimagines Ecuadorian and Latin American flavors with elegant creativity—think stone crab, sea bass ceviche, and an unforgettable octopus that stole the show.
Our second night was pure magic. We dined at Casa Gangotena, our hotel, savoring “Mestizo cuisine”—a refined blend of traditional Ecuadorian flavors and modern technique (think smoked ceviche and perfect cocktails). The restaurant has earned accolades like Best Hotel Restaurant in Ecuador 2023, and with those panoramic views of Quito’s historic skyline glowing at dusk, it was the perfect farewell to a city we absolutely fell in love with.
The Verdict: Would I Return to Quito?
Absolutely. Next time, I’d love to pair it with Peru, or explore more of Ecuador—from the Amazon Rainforest and Andean Highlands to Cotopaxi National Park, Otavalo Market, Mindo Cloud Forest, Quilotoa Crater Lake, or La Mitad del Mundo (the Middle of the World). Quito was the perfect introduction—historic, elegant, and full of surprises (dry ice–themed ice cream included).
